Smelly Vietnamese vermicelli with fried tofu and shrimp sauce

How many types of Vietnamese vermicelli and noodles can you count? Among all of them, have you ever heard of a smelly but popular vermicelli dish named bun dau mam tom (Vietnamese vermicelli with fried tofu and shrimp sauce)? When you look at the picture, you see it seems to be tasty and fresh, right? However, bun dau mam tom Hanoi is not for chicken-hearted ones. Because of its smell, many foreigners do not have the bravery to try it. What a pity because they have missed out on one of the most favorite dishes of Vietnam and one of the most recommended things to do in Hanoi by locals. But if you can overcome the smell, you will love bun dau.

Bun dau mam tom can be breakfast, lunch or dinner and be the favorite dish of local people in both cold and hot weather.
Bun dau mam tom can be breakfast, lunch or dinner and be the favorite dish of local people in both cold and hot weather.

Bun means Vietnamese vermicelli, dau means tofu and mam tom means shrimp sauce or shrimp paste (the smelly thing). The name bun dau mam tom is a way to call out all the main ingredients of the dish. Besides these things, bun dau mam tom Hanoi can be eaten with boiled pork, spring roll, chả cốm (green rice pork pies), cucumber and herbs. Among all kinds of herbs, perilla and marjoram can never be missed.

Tofu is fried deeply into oil until the surface turns to yellow color
Tofu is fried deeply into oil until the surface turns to yellow color

In details, tofu is always deep fried and mam tom is mixed with lime, chilli and garlic. Some use used to fry the tofu to add a deliciously buttery to the sauce.

Shrimp sauce is the favorite sauce of Vietnamese people that brings the special taste for this dish
Shrimp sauce is the favorite sauce of Vietnamese people that brings the special taste for this dish

Before tasting it, you need to stir it so that all the glutamate is resolved. Instead of mam tom, you can choose fish sauce but I have to tell you that it taste totally different between shrimp sauce and fish sauce.

Where to find the best bun dau mam tom (Vietnamese vermicelli fried tofu and shrimp sauce) in Hanoi?

Bun dau Trung Huong, Phat Loc Alley (27/29 Hang Khay) may be the most famous bun dau mam tom Hanoi. This restaurant is located in the Old Quarter, in a convenient site to reach. This alley is less than 100m but always crowded, full of bun dau mam tom lovers. It is rumored that whoever comes to visit Hanoi, go to Phat Loc Alley and taste bun dau Phat Loc will surely come back again one day.

Delicious set of Bun dau mam tom can fulfill your empty stomach with very cheap price
Delicious set of Bun dau mam tom can fulfill your empty stomach with very cheap price

What about price? Bun dau mam tom is a popular dish among Hanoi locals partly because it’s not an expensive dish. A dish of bun dau mam tom on the street only costs about just one dollar with a basic set of Vietnamese vermicelli, tofu, herbs and shrimp paste.

If you tend to have some bun dau, remember to bring with some chewing gum. It will help to refresh your breathe after all.

People say that bun dau and mam tom Hanoi were born for each other. As long as boys still fall for girls, bun dau and mam tom will still be a close-knit couple. Just be brave and forget the smell. Perhaps you will want to come back to that bun dau mam tom Hanoi restaurant once more time.

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